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How to put basketball hoop on garage
How To Install A Basketball Hoop On A Garage, House, Or Wall – Backyard Sidekick
Setting up a new basketball hoop can be a bit of a challenge. If you’ve decided to go with a more permanent approach as opposed to a mobile hoop, there are a couple options. Installing a permanent pole in the ground, or getting a wall mount for the hoop and installing it on the garage, the house, or a wall.
To install a basketball hoop on the garage, you will need a basketball hoop wall mount and compatible basketball backboard and rim. Set the height of the rim to the ground at 10 feet, and draw a free throw line 15 feet from the hoop to comply with NBA regulations for a more realistic practice.
That sounds simple enough right? Well, there’s a bit more to it so I will go into more detail about the planning, set up, and installation so keep reading.
If you already have a basketball wall mount set, then great, let’s jump into the steps. If you haven’t selected a hoop yet, I recommend at least a 54″ wide backboard for a two car driveway sized area, like this Silverback 54″ Wall Mounted Basketball Hoop Set (link to Amazon).
Smaller areas can get away with smaller backboards, but it’s best to get as close to regulation size as possible for training purposes.
Plan Hoop Location
This might be the most important step starting right away. You want to make sure the location you pick will be suitable for playing basketball, but also that players won’t be in the way of other things going on in the area.
Centered on playing area
Out of the way if possible
Highest hoop adjustment will set the top of the rim 10 feet from the ground
Enough area to draw a free throw line 15 feet from the backboard
If at all possible try to mount the hoop in the center of the playing area, for example if you plan on playing on a concrete slab or a driveway. Keep in mind the height you will want the hoop to be at. It’s recommended for 4th and 5th graders to play on an 8 ft hoop, 6th graders to play on a 9 ft hoop, and everything above should play on the regulation height 10 ft hoop.
The hoop I recommended above has a 2.5 foot adjustment range to cover all of those heights. It’s best to make sure that the top of the rim will be 10 feet from the ground wherever you plan on installing the hoop if you want to be within high school, NCAA, and NBA court regulations.
A regulation free throw line is 15 feet from the front of the backboard. If you plan on practicing for an actual basketball game, It’d be nice to have at least that much space on the court. We will get into the other markings later on, but up front, it’s good to have a plan to fit your needs.
Tools And Set Up Equipment
Now that you’ve decided where you want the hoop to be mounted, it’s time gather the tools and equipment. Most of the wall mount basketball hoops will come with lag bolts meant to mount the bracket, and I was able to do so with just an impact drill and the correct size socket.
Tools Required:
Lag bolts (if not included) or nuts and bolts
Socket set and drill, or a set of wrenches
Stud finder (recommended)
Ladder (or two if you have help)
The equipment you will need should all come in a set if you got it from a decent company. For example, the Silverback 54″ Wall Mounted Basketball Hoop Set (link to Amazon) comes with everything you need. The wall mount, backboard, and rim.
If you’re piecing these parts together yourself, be careful that not all companies make the equipment to the same specs. The holes won’t line up or you’ll need to make modifications and things like that. That being said, they do make a Universal Mounting Bracket from Amazon, but still make sure it will work with your backboard before buying.
Find Studs To Install The Wall Mount
We’ve got all the tools, equipment, and know where to mount the hoop now. I recommend finding a wall stud to drill the wall mount into. This is easy to do on an unfinished garage usually, because you can look on the inside of the wall and find a stud to use. I’ve actually added pieces of 2×4 into the wall to keep the hoop centered where I wanted it.
On the side of a house, or a wall that is covered on the other side, this may be a little tougher. In that case, use a stud finder and do your best to install the wall mount securely into a frame stud.
For a concrete or brick wall, I would simply not use the lag bolts and use concrete anchors of an appropriate size to install the wall mount.
Install The Wall Mount
Hopefully you were able to find a stud, or add 2×4’s where you want to mount, without too much trouble. Before trying to just drill the lag bolts into the stud, you should drill a pilot hole first. This will help the lag bolt seat correctly and lower the chances of splitting the stud.
Some sets will come with a nut and bolt rather than a set of lag bolts. If that’s the case, drill a hole the size of the bolt, and simple bolt the mount into place using the bolt, nuts, and washers.
Here’s a video of the steps we’ve covered so far that might help you out if you prefer a visual. This guy was piecing together a backboard he got that didn’t come with a wall mount, but it might help to see the issues he had.
Install The Backboard And Rim
Some sets come with backboard and rim already installed onto the wall mount, and some come in all separate pieces. If they come in separate pieces, I found it easier to install the wall mount when it was a standalone piece by itself. Then attaching the backboard and rim with the included bolts.
On the other hand, I then had to make three trips up and down the ladder to install each part individually. It’s all personal preference which approach you take here.
If you feel like you could use some help on any of those steps, I suggest looking somewhere like HomeAdvisor Handyman Services where you can find a local helper to give you a hand.
Check Tightness Of Equipment
Once the wall mount is secure and everything’s in place, I like to do a once over check on all the equipment, moving parts, and bolts to make sure everything’s nice and tightened down properly. If you did a good job, this step will be quick, easy, and will give you a little peace of mind.
This is also a good time to make sure the adjustable action of the hoop mount is functioning properly. Simply move from it’s lowest setting to its highest and confirm everything’s in working order.
Mark The Basketball Court
I wrote a whole article about Basketball Court Dimensions for high school, College, and NBA regulation courts. So if you have the space, and you’re picky, you can check out all the official measurements. But for the average backyard or driveway basketball court set up, you’ll probably be fine with a simple key and free throw line.
I recommend using a decent kit like this Easy Basketball Court Stencil Kit (link to Amazon) to map out the court under the hoop. I think it adds a nice touch to the feel of the court, even if it’s simply in a driveway.
Here’s the instructional video for the stencil kit above, so you can see if it’s a project you want to tackle.
Play Basketball
That’s it! You now a have a sweet basketball hoop set up to play basketball on. Check out these 14 Fun Basketball Games For All Ages to get some ideas for the different games you can play on your new hoop.
There shouldn’t be too much maintenance for these types of wall mount basketball hoop set ups. Once a year I like to go out and check the tightness of all the bolts again, usually when spring starts before the hoop starts getting a lot use.
Helpful Links:
Silverback 54″ Wall Mounted Basketball Hoop Set (link to Amazon)
Easy Basketball Court Stencil Kit (link to Amazon)
10 At Home Basketball Training Drills
How To Get Better At Basketball: Skills Improvement
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How to Attach a Basketball Hoop to a Garage
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Transform your driveway into a court and bring one-on-one games to life with the addition of a basketball hoop to your garage. You don’t have to be a handyman extraordinaire to tackle this project, only an owner of a ladder and a drill and the knowledge to use them.
Home Court Advantage
Installing a basketball hoop can turn any empty area into a playful zone of H-O-R-S-E games and casually shooting hoops with friends and family. The best places that make home-courts are roomy driveways, preferably hanging the hoop on the roof in front of a double garage. The best pseudo-courts are level and smooth, but anywhere with wide enough playing space will do the trick. Plenty of homeowners with single door garages have make their narrower driveways work in their favor.
Installing a roof-mounted basketball hoop is one of the easiest ways to turn your driveway into a court.
There are a few things you should consider before climbing up to your roof and installing your new garage-mounted hoop:
Your mounting surface needs to be secured and able to support the hoop without fear of it falling or wobbling off (especially onto your car or yourself).
Mounting on your garage means you should avoid the hoop being obstructed by the roof line.
The hoop, when installing it on against the garage, should be as flat as possible.
Be sure that the place where you’re installing the basketball hoop is free and clear of any mechanisms around the garage door area.
Installing Your Basketball Hoop to Your Garage: Step-by-Step
The NBA’s regulation backboard size is 72 by 42 inches and the NBA, WNBA, and NCAA’s regulation height for the hoop’s rim is 10 feet from the playing surface, with the rim measuring 18 inches in diameter and net hanging 18 inches from the rim itself. This is your court, and you certainly don’t have to follow any strict regulations to have a fun game of basketball, so just decide ahead of time how high you want your hoop and if you want to match the pros.
Step One
Scout the area where you’d want your basketball hoop to go. Next, mark where you’ll be putting the mounting brackets for the hoop. You’ll want to attach your hoop against the roof’s studs in the center of the roof, which you can locate with an electronic stud finder.
Now, gather your tools:
Ladder
Drill
Stud finder
Crescent wrenches
Level
Tape measure
Your basketball hoop kit
Any additional tools recommended by the kit’s instructions
Step Two
Install your mounting brackets on the places you previously marked on your garage’s roof. Do this by following your hoop kit’s installation instructions. The majority of basketball hoop kits will have adjustable brackets that accommodate for different roof pitches and other unique garage features.
You’ll be drilling pilot holes for your lag bolts, so you’ll want to use a drill bit that’s ¼ the size of the bolts you’re using. Now, line up the holes and attach the bracket to the roof with your lag bolts. Attach the mounting bracket with a socket and ratchet.
Step Three
With the help of a family member or friend, attach your backboard. Your kit will likely come with nuts and bolts, which you’ll use along with your power drill to install the backboard.
Next, use water-resistant, exterior caulking to seal any holes or gaps left behind. This will keep your newly installed bolts from rusting and stop water from sneaking into places it doesn’t belong. Rainwater can also be the culprit behind rotted out studs. Test the backboard while on your ladder to ensure that it’s installed securely.
Step Four
Finally, attach the net to the rim.
Installing a basketball hoop is an easy project that only demands a few moments of your time. Most of us have a ladder, a drill, and the appropriate wrenches lying around to mount a backboard, a task that can be completed in thirty minutes or less. Mounting a backboard basketball hoop to your garage is decidedly easier than attempting to install an in-ground basketball hoop.
Once you’ve mounted the brackets, hung the backboard, and attached the net to the rim, take a step back and remove the ladder away from the basketball hoop. Check to see if the backboard appears straight, even tossing the ball a few times to make it’s not hitting the backboard at any odd angles.
Periodically, you’ll want to check to see if you need to re-caulk around the areas where you drilled for your lag bolts. You’ll also want to ensure that the backboard is still secured as outer elements like strong winds and storms can wreak havoc on exterior installed accessories.
Do You Need A Garage To Attach Your Hoop To?
At Danley’s, we have all the garage styles and sizes that will improve the value of your home. All the stuff that you wanted to move out of the garage can be stored inside a two-car or even a three-car garage. Speak to a specialist about garage sizes and get a free quote online today.
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Basketball hoop - how to make a stand with a backboard with your own hands
Love basketball and want to make a hoop? I wanted to make it myself, not buy it, and I ended up making it. It's pretty cheap, especially if you have some of the stuff you need to assemble.
Let's start assembling the basketball hoop with our own hands.
Step 1: Shape the Ring
The first thing you will need is a ring, I made it with 12mm rod, but it doesn't have to be that size. The standard diameter of a basketball hoop is 450 mm.
To make it flat you need something to wrap it around, this thing should be about 400mm in diameter.
I found an old car rim of the right size, you will need to clamp it to the table with a clamp using a piece of wood.
As shown in photo 2, place another clamp a little further from the first with a rod between them.
As shown in photo 3, slowly wrap the rod around the disk, once you wrap the rod and its edges overlap, cut off the straight ends.
Use a clamp to press the ends together, then weld them together.
To complete this part, place the ring on the ground and straighten out all the curves.
Step 2: Frame
Bend a piece of flat metal, mine was 4mm thick.
Weld it to a flat point in the ring.
Cut two rods 320 mm long.
Weld them as shown in the photo.
Drill four holes to match your existing bolts.
If you need a netball ring, you can simply attach it to the pole and skip the rest of the steps.
Step 3: Mesh Staples (Optional)
Show 7 More Images
Do this step if you need mesh. If you need a network, you will have to buy it. This step is not as difficult as it seems.
cut 12 pieces of wire 90 mm long (I would recommend making a few spare parts, as they are easy to ruin. )
bend them in the middle (it doesn't matter if the tips are the same length)
clamp the wire in a vise with a steel rod at one end
bend wire over rod
repeat this with all parts of
retighten the wire wrapped around the rod (see photo)
bend it
repeat with all parts
retighten the wire wrapped around the rod
bend it (at this point you can't just remove the wire from the rod - you will need to slide it to one of its edges and remove it from the edge)
repeat with all parts of
divide into 12 pieces and weld on the brackets
Step 4: Backboard
Cut the board to size. My board does not fit the full size of basketball boards. (the second picture shows the dimensions of a standard shield).
My measurements are 1100mm wide, 700mm high and 25mm thick. (You don't have to be that size.)
Step 5: Paint the Shield
Once you've drawn all the lines on the shield, lay masking tape over them. If you try, everything will look neat.
If you are using MDF, you will need to take care to protect the edges from moisture (as shown in photo 2).
Carefully paint over the areas around the masking tape.
Remove masking tape after enough coats of paint have been applied and the board looks complete.
Step 6: Paint the ring
First you need to sand the metal. I used a grinding disc on a grinder.
The ring must not be black or white, it must stand out from the shield. Usually the ring is painted orange or red.
The easiest way to paint inventory is from a can.
Step 7: Assemble
Put it all together. Screw the ring to the shield, hang a net on the ring.
Step 8: Installation
DIY Basketball Post is great for mounting on a garage or house wall, but if you want to mount it on a pole, you can create one too.
I installed my ring in the yard using heavy duty wood screws.
A standard basketball hoop must be 3 meters from the ground.
I am not responsible for any damage you cause to yourself or your property - you make your own ring.
Every car owner dreams of a small cozy garage. This dream is easy to turn into reality with your own hands by building a garage yourself.
Construction features
Before you start building a garage, you need to carefully consider and disassemble the construction plan. First of all, you need to obtain a building permit.
Special attention should be paid to the following documents:
SNiP 2.07.01-89 “Urban planning. Planning and development of urban and rural settlements”;
SNiP 01/21/97 "Fire safety of buildings and structures".
If the fire regulations are not met, then the building can be declared illegal and demolished.
You also need to decide what kind of building will be. It is divided into several types:
temporary - has a short service life;
mobile - requires frame construction;
combined - suitable for subsiding soils;
capital - has a long service life, but will be expensive.
Security against intruders needs to be considered. It is better to spend money on an alarm system than to calculate the losses due to stolen property and a stolen car later.
Dimensions
In order to calculate the required dimensions, you should determine the number and size of machines that will "live" in the building. You should also understand whether any other things will be stored in the garage. It is necessary to consider whether a large car will be bought in the near future. For example, if in the near future the owner is going to purchase a large truck, then building a passenger car is pointless, it is better to immediately consider the option of building a large garage.
For one machine, the size will be calculated based on its dimensions. Add half a meter on each side to this value. This is necessary for a comfortable exit from the car and free movement around the garage. It should be remembered that with such small sizes for tires and various devices there will be no room. Therefore, it is worth increasing the length by 3 meters and adding a few more meters to the width. The height of the building must be more than half a meter from the height of the car.
All measurements are best taken with the trunk open.
For several vehicles, it will be more difficult to calculate the size. Between them you need to create a distance of a fully open door, you can add 30-40 cm for comfortable parking. Between the wall and the door, the distance should be more than half a meter. The front and rear of the vehicle must be positioned so that a person can pass freely. The distance should be left at about one meter.
As for the gate, here you need to take the width of the car and add 60 cm on both sides. If there are two cars, then it is better to take the width of the gate from 2.5 meters and 20 cm in reserve on each side. The height of the building is calculated in the same way as in the case of a single machine.
These were examples of the simplest small boxes. If the owner wants to use the garage space not only for storing his "iron horse", but also for other purposes, it will be enough to calculate the dimensions of the items and take into account the space for a free approach to them. Then add the data obtained to the existing dimensions of the garage, which were calculated from above.
Drawing will help determine the dimensions, it is made on paper or in a special program. For advice, you can turn to professionals, they will help and tell you how best to fulfill this or that idea. You can take the finished scheme. The main thing is its presence. The drawing is very important for subsequent work.
Choosing a location
If the garage is located on a summer cottage, you can consider the option of adding a structure to the house. There is no need to obtain permission here, construction does not require special conditions, because such a building is considered part of the house. Here it is possible to make the exit as close to the gate as possible or immediately to the street.
Free-standing garage type will be tricky. The SNiP states that there must be a distance of at least one meter between the garage and the boundary of the site if there are no buildings on neighboring land plots. In the case when they are, then the distance should be at least 6 meters. When erecting a building, make sure that there are no sewer pipes, heating pipes, water pipes and power lines nearby. Construction in lowlands should be avoided - this can lead to flooding. The best option would be a small hill.
If there is not enough space on the plot, then the way out of the situation is to build a garage underground. Departure must be done on the street. It is impossible to have a garage directly under the house itself; it would be more rational to make an extension to the strip foundation. The area under which the building is located should not be used for the installation of structures with a foundation depth of more than 55 cm. But if there are underground springs or wetlands at the site of the future building, then it is better to refuse construction, such soil will require an extremely expensive drainage system.
The premises should be located as close as possible to the exit and motorway, but without sharp turns.
If you don't have a dacha and you need a garage, you can buy a privatized piece of land in the city. After that, having received permission, start construction. This process is very lengthy, so be patient. You should choose a place as close to home as possible, but you need to be prepared for the fact that there may not be free land for building within the city, but only on the outskirts or outside the city. Such a garage needs careful protection from intruders.
Design options
There are many types of garages to suit all tastes and budgets. The simplest and cheapest options are “shell” and “pencil case”. They can be easily made with your own hands, and the “shell” can even be moved. But they are not durable.
The next type is one-story, it can be made with a pit or utility block. In the city, the monolithic version is most often built, and although it does not look very attractive, it is very durable. No thief will be able to get into it. If the garage is located in a summer cottage, then a panel frame garage can be an inexpensive option. It is built many times faster than monolithic and brick.
Two-storey building can serve not only for car storage, but also suitable for living in the summer. The residential floor should be warm, equipped with light, a toilet and a kitchen. And the second floor with a gable roof can turn into a cozy attic.
The garage can also be an extension to the main house. The advantages of such a building is that you do not need to think additionally about heating and other communications, the entrance to the extension can be made directly from home. But a significant disadvantage is that exhaust gases enter the house upon arrival and departure of a car. This option is suitable for those owners who have not completed the main house, because an extension to an already finished building requires large investments and thorough preparation.
To build an underground space, several conditions must be met:
When building a deep garage, waterproofing is considered the biggest problem. It will require the arrangement of a drainage system for the roof of the garage and enhanced waterproofing of all supporting structures.
The roof frame of the garage must be made using concrete slabs with a mandatory support system.
The room must have an emergency exit in the event of a house collapse or fire.
After choosing the construction of the garage, you should decide on the material and find good suppliers of all the necessary attributes for the construction.
Materials
The market offers a huge range of quality materials that will last a long time. Each has its own pros and cons, you should remember this and choose the option with which it will be comfortable to work.
Polycarbonate is lightweight and cheap, but should only be used for a small garage. For example, for shells.
If the owner prefers metal, then you can opt for sandwich panels or corrugated board. Sandwich panels in the section resemble a sandwich: between two metal sheets there is a heater. Construction is carried out in a very short time, and the design is lightweight and lends itself to any upgrades. Their price is very low, and installation can be carried out at any time of the year. But such material is short-lived, the metal frame requires rust treatment, and the wooden base must be treated with antiseptic substances.
Profiled sheeting is a cheap, high-quality and beautiful material. Garages from corrugated board are built quite quickly. You should pay attention to the brand: it is better to choose S-20 or PS 0.5 mm thick. In no case should you take grades -8, these sheets will not last long due to poor wind resistance and low frost resistance.
Red brick construction will be much more durable than metal. This material has high frost resistance, low thermal conductivity. From an aesthetic point of view, brickwork looks pretty decent, but the material is expensive.
The foam block is cheap and lightweight, so it can be built by one person. The only catch is that the gray blocks don't look very attractive. This problem can be solved with the help of finishing materials.
Gas silicate blocks are gaining popularity. Despite their low weight, they have high strength and are easy to process. Also, the blocks have low thermal conductivity, do not require additional treatment with antiseptics. With such material, you can not be afraid of the appearance of mold, bacteria and fungus.
In terms of environmental performance, gas silicate blocks are on a par with natural materials.
Minus gas silicate blocks - high water absorption. The plaster layer on the walls can crack and flake off. This problem can be solved by treating the walls with penetrating primers. Since blocks are a weak basis for fasteners, it will be problematic to fix massive objects. They do not have high frost resistance. The material has high rates of free lime, which allows you to activate the corrosion processes of metal inclusions: fittings, pipelines, frames and others.
Another artificial but environmentally friendly material is cinder block. You can buy it or make it yourself. The second will require a vibroforming machine. When buying, you should pay attention to the filler. It is better to choose crushed stone, sawdust, shell rock, expanded clay. A cinder block garage is not afraid of natural disasters, it has a high fire safety, and is easily repaired. With this material, you can vary the thickness of the walls. In addition, it is not amenable to biological destruction, its price is quite small, and its service life is about 100 years. Reduces the dignity of the cinder block unpresentable appearance, complex laying of pipes and cables, high thermal conductivity.
Arbolit has been known since the times of the USSR. It is light in weight and has low thermal conductivity. It is a flame-retardant material, resistant to stretching. He is not afraid of cracks and deformations during foundation movements. It is immune to rot and mildew. The material is distinguished by high frost resistance. It is also easy to fix various designs on it. In such a garage there will be good sound absorption. Of the minuses - a high coefficient of water absorption - from 40 to 85%, and a rather high price.
Expanded clay block will be an assistant in the implementation of bold design and architectural ideas. Almost all types of finishes, both internal and external, are suitable for it. The material has low thermal conductivity, it is strong and durable, with high sound insulation. The vapor permeability of the blocks creates a favorable microclimate inside the building. The process of building a garage will move quickly due to the large size of the block. And simple production contributes to an affordable price.
The downside of expanded clay blocks is the formation of cold bridges, but with the help of cladding and additional thermal insulation, the problem can be solved. The material has low water resistance, is quite heavy and requires a strong foundation, but this building material cannot be used as a foundation.
Wood is a more natural material. The material is inexpensive, beautiful and allows you to make bold design decisions. With the help of various impregnations, fire resistance can be achieved. Minus - a short service life and high thermal conductivity.
Railway sleepers are wooden beams. A special blend that works as an antiseptic helps protect your garage from rot, bacteria, sun, moisture and small rodents. You can buy sleepers at the nearest railway department, where the tracks are being repaired. A garage made of such material will turn out to be dry and warm, able to withstand even an earthquake. But you should never build a garage from new sleepers. The smell of creosote is very dangerous, it can cause chemical burns and poisoning. The period of their use in the air should be 12-30 years, during this period the mixture is washed off and loses its unpleasant odor.
The methods of making and processing sleepers are different, some products are impregnated through, and others by 2.75 centimeters. It is better to use the last option. Such a building requires careful processing inside, which reduces the risk of contact with creosote residues. Outside, it is necessary to make a well-ventilated facade.
Many building materials do not have high frost resistance , so the garage must be insulated. The cheapest insulation is foam. It is very easy to install. But you need to remember that this is a fragile material that wears out quickly.
Another cheap insulation is mineral wool. It is safe for health, has high thermal insulation and a high level of sound absorption. Such material must be covered with an additional layer of vapor barrier.
More serious insulation - reflective insulation. The material consists of a layer of heat insulator, covered with a metallized film on top. Of the advantages - low thermal conductivity, excellent sound insulation, low weight, immunity to moisture. This material is easy to install. The disadvantage is that the material has been used not so long ago and all its properties have not been studied. It is only known that this insulation is susceptible to corrosion.
Basalt cardboard is a durable material that is highly resistant to temperature extremes, deformation and moisture. The material has low heat capacity and good sound absorption, is not afraid of fire. It is not cheap, but very high quality and will last for many years.
Heat-insulating paint and "warm" plaster will help to additionally insulate the garage.
The exterior finish of the building must combine resistance to external environmental influences and have a presentable appearance. The modern market offers a wide range of options that meet these conditions. The simplest and cheapest ways are jointing, plastering, siding. More expensive ways are wooden lining, natural or artificial stones.
If the garage has two floors, the space between the first and second floors is covered with reinforced concrete slabs. It is desirable to do this with a hollow-core slab, because it is easier to install and low in price.
Roof covering materials can be divided into two groups: soft and hard. The former are suitable for a flat roof, and the latter for a gable roof.
Soft tiles include:
Flexible tiles. The material serves up to 55 years, is resistant to corrosion and decay and can be of any color. It is better not to use the material in the northern regions - under the influence of frost, it becomes brittle.
Ruberoid. Service life - about 15 years. The material is cheap, resistant to frost and sun exposure.
Self-leveling roof lasts 22 years, is easy and quick to install, and can be repaired. The application surface must be perfectly smooth.
Fused roll roofing (gidroizol, stekloizol) has been in operation for about 50 years. The material is durable, does not burn, it has good sound insulation, and is immune to temperature extremes. The only negative is the high price.
Rigid include:
Reinforced concrete slab - has a long service life, also suitable for flat roofs, can withstand a lot of weight. On such a roof, you can even set up a garden.
Flat slate - easy to install, inexpensive, does not lose its qualities in any climatic conditions. Its very easy to fix.
Polycarbonate - lasts about 25 years, does not burn or react with solvents, low price. Such material is easy to install, resistant to temperature extremes, but under their influence it can slightly change shape.
Seam roof - does not require a powerful frame, durable, resistant to mechanical damage and temperature changes. Cons of the material - high price, difficult installation, low sound absorption.
Garage needs electricity. Here you can use self-supporting insulated wire (SIP).
There are several brands of SIP and they all have different properties:
SIP-1, SIP-1A are resistant to ultraviolet rays;
SIP-2 is used in the installation of power lines with voltage up to 1000 V;
SIP-3 is used for overhead power lines;
SIP-4 UV resistant;
SIP-5 is suitable for temperate and cold climates, resistant to high temperatures.
Wooden pallets are required for the storage and safe movement of building materials. A good choice would be a pallet made of white acacia, birch or boxwood.
To save money, you can buy a used pallet, the main thing is good quality.
Building process: basic steps
Once the blueprint has been created, materials selected, and step-by-step instructions prepared, construction can begin.
"Penal" and "shell" do not require a solid foundation. First you need to make several separate sections and then assemble them.
Assembly steps:
you need to drill technological holes in the structure;
coat finished elements with an anti-corrosion agent and paint them;
assemble the segments into a common structure and fix;
protect and paint all welding defects.
Electricity can be connected to the garage. To do this, a lamp and two sockets are installed, then the wires are passed through the corrugation. For work, copper wires with double insulation are taken.
A more complex structure starts with a solid foundation. For a garage, options such as a monolithic slab, pile material, tape shallow or buried foundation are suitable. If a pit or cellar is planned, then the best choice is a recessed tape. A garage with a quality foundation will last a long time and will not bring problems, so more attention should be paid to this stage.
Separately, it is worth considering the construction of a pit. The size depends on the car itself. For a passenger car, a width of about 70 cm is suitable, for a truck, you need to add 20-25 cm to the standard size. The height depends on the height of the owner of the garage, but, in any case, it is better to make the garage a little deeper.
An important element is the plinth, its height varies from 0.5 to 2 meters. There are two types of plinth: protruding and recessed. The first option is more elegant, but it will require the construction of an additional ebb along the protruding upper edge - this prevents moisture from entering. The second option is more practical and the building receives maximum protection from moisture.
Two methods are used in the construction of walls, it all depends on the chosen material. The first way is block building. With it, the garage will not need to be heavily insulated, but additional finishing on the outside will be required. The second way is wireframe. The frame is made of a metal profile pipe or a wooden beam. The advantage of this method is the rapid construction of the premises.
The next step is to prepare the gate for installation. First you need to take measurements. It is necessary to measure the opening, paying attention to the distance from the right edge to the left. It is also necessary to measure the height of the lintel.
There are different types of garage doors: simple swing, sectional, automatic or manual. Most car owners prefer sectional. Such products are very comfortable, take up less space, sealed and strong. But they are high in price and have a complex device.
Before installing the gate, carefully read the instructions and properly prepare the opening. If the material is light, the opening is reinforced with a special metal frame. For a brick garage, such a frame is not required.
The room needs to be vacated, this will help to cope with the assembly and installation of the gate much faster and easier.
The next stage depends on the number of floors: if the garage is two-story, then it is necessary to cover between the first and second floors with a reinforced concrete slab and re-erect the walls.
When building a roof, you need to be careful and observe safety precautions. The easiest way is a flat roof with a slight slope, about 15 cm. So it will be better to go down and drain the precipitation. The only disadvantage of such a roof is the lack of an attic.
A gable roof will be more difficult to implement and it will take more roofing. But on such a roof it will be possible to make an attic with a rest room. Still such a roof needs a heating system. Additionally, a canopy should be made, under it you can park oversized vehicles and protect the car from the sun and rain without driving inside.
Don't neglect ventilation. It is needed to remove moisture, remove harmful fumes. This is protection against rust of metal products and surfaces, creation of a microclimate. The cheapest way is natural ventilation: air flows out through the supply and exhaust openings. But in hot weather, such ventilation does not work. Expensive installation methods - forced and combined ventilation. They provide proper air circulation at any time of the year, and in winter they can even heat it up. In addition, they are easy to install with your own hands.
Next, you can move on to interior and exterior decoration. It is necessary to take care of waterproofing, treat the floor and walls of the garage with special mixtures. For walls, Penetron will be an excellent tool, and the floor can be coated with polymer varnish or bitumen.
The surface must be thoroughly cleaned and sanded before starting to coat.
Floor materials such as paint, screeds, ceramic tiles, wood or rubber flooring are used. Walls can be lined with the same materials as the floor, or plastic panels can be used. The material must withstand temperature extremes and direct impacts. And the ceiling must be resistant to evaporation.
Exterior decoration should not be afraid of bad weather. The quality of the material must be carefully monitored and the cladding must be carried out reliably. And you can decorate the appearance with the help of decorative elements.
The progress of the underground garage is very different. At the planning stage, it is necessary to decide whether the building will be completely or partially in the ground. Next, you need to dig a pit of the desired size and place the slabs on the bottom or fill with reinforcement. It is important to take high quality concrete. With the help of reinforced concrete slabs, the foundation of the walls is formed, then the ceiling is installed on the side slabs.
Ceilings and walls are covered with waterproofing, reinforcing mesh is installed on them and plaster is laid. Additionally, surfaces are treated with antifungal agents and primed.
After that, you can proceed to the installation of the garage door and the formation of the driveway.
It is important to take into account several conditions:
the slope of the entrance must be 140-150 degrees;
there must be retaining walls on the sides, they prevent the collapse of the soil;
the length of the driveway depends on the length of the garage - the longer it is, the longer the driveway;
for a safe exit and descent to the garage, a path with a handrail should be made;
do not use sliding materials for the track, but additionally you need to make braking notches, they will come in handy during rain and ice;
a heated storm sewer must be made near the gate to prevent the water from freezing;
after completion of construction, heating, electricity, ventilation and additional waterproofing will be installed.
Waterproofing is carried out in several stages:
a drainage system is installed on the outside of the garage, and the surface is once again covered with waterproofing material;
a filter pad is formed on the sides and under the floor;
final stage - interior decoration. The material is better to use waterproof and warm.
Helpful hints
Here are some more tips for creating a cozy garage:
house and garage will look more harmonious and beautiful if they are designed in the same styles and colors;
if there is an inspection hole in the garage, then you can organize a small service there, having previously received official permission for it;
from the garage you can make a small workshop and do your favorite thing or hobby;
outside can be equipped with a basketball hoop;
you can rent a garage and get a good monthly income;
Organize your space with various shelves, holders and stands;
Shelf curtains add extra coziness to the interior;
folding chair and chairs will allow you to gather here with friends, they are also useful for snacking when staying in the garage for a long time;
shelves and shelving should be done at a distance of 20 cm, so it will be easier to clean the floor;
sloping screed at an angle and drains for the exit of water from the room will make it possible to wash the car without driving it outside;
labeled boxes make it much easier to find the right part;
for additional insulation in winter, you can use an electric heater or a potbelly stove.
For example, the Silverback 54″ Wall Mounted Basketball Hoop Set (link to Amazon) comes with everything you need. The wall mount, backboard, and rim. 
In that case, use a stud finder and do your best to install the wall mount securely into a frame stud.
I think it adds a nice touch to the feel of the court, even if it’s simply in a driveway.
You don’t have to be a handyman extraordinaire to tackle this project, only an owner of a ladder and a drill and the knowledge to use them.
You’ll want to attach your hoop against the roof’s studs in the center of the roof, which you can locate with an electronic stud finder.
Your kit will likely come with nuts and bolts, which you’ll use along with your power drill to install the backboard.
Check to see if the backboard appears straight, even tossing the ball a few times to make it’s not hitting the backboard at any odd angles.
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If you try, everything will look neat. 
Departure must be done on the street. It is impossible to have a garage directly under the house itself; it would be more rational to make an extension to the strip foundation. The area under which the building is located should not be used for the installation of structures with a foundation depth of more than 55 cm. But if there are underground springs or wetlands at the site of the future building, then it is better to refuse construction, such soil will require an extremely expensive drainage system. 
Such a garage needs careful protection from intruders. 
With such material, you can not be afraid of the appearance of mold, bacteria and fungus. 
A cinder block garage is not afraid of natural disasters, it has a high fire safety, and is easily repaired. With this material, you can vary the thickness of the walls. In addition, it is not amenable to biological destruction, its price is quite small, and its service life is about 100 years. Reduces the dignity of the cinder block unpresentable appearance, complex laying of pipes and cables, high thermal conductivity. 
Almost all types of finishes, both internal and external, are suitable for it. The material has low thermal conductivity, it is strong and durable, with high sound insulation. The vapor permeability of the blocks creates a favorable microclimate inside the building. The process of building a garage will move quickly due to the large size of the block. And simple production contributes to an affordable price. 
The cheapest insulation is foam. It is very easy to install. But you need to remember that this is a fragile material that wears out quickly. 
It is not cheap, but very high quality and will last for many years. 
The material serves up to 55 years, is resistant to corrosion and decay and can be of any color. It is better not to use the material in the northern regions - under the influence of frost, it becomes brittle. 
Its very easy to fix. 
A good choice would be a pallet made of white acacia, birch or boxwood. 
The second option is more practical and the building receives maximum protection from moisture. 
Still such a roof needs a heating system. Additionally, a canopy should be made, under it you can park oversized vehicles and protect the car from the sun and rain without driving inside. 
With the help of reinforced concrete slabs, the foundation of the walls is formed, then the ceiling is installed on the side slabs. 
