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How to Build a Super DIY Wood Basketball Hoop in Hours!
Our DIY Reclaimed Wood basketball Hoop was incredibly easy to make & only took a few hours to build for just the cost of a basketball rim. Sharing all of our tips & tricks for how to make an awesome DIY wood basketball hoop with pictures. It’s a hit with our kids for those home bound rainy days when they are stuck indoors!
Table of Contents
DIY Reclaimed Wood Basketball Hoop
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Hands down our family’s favorite sport is basketball.
With the kids home this Spring & so many rainy days to come we decided to make an indoor DIY wood Basketball Hoop for our new home gym/ office.
With most of the furniture out of the room, thanks to our new bookcase turned entertainment center (see that here) we have plenty of room for the kids to let out ALL this extra energy they have!!!
Although our basement ceilings are low (7 feet), we decided it would still be fun to make the kids a DIY reclaimed wood basketball hoop since they love playing basketball together & can’t play outside when the weather is bad.
Supplies Needed for a DIY Wood Basketball Hoop
Our DIY Basketball Hoop Backboard Dimensions are 27″ inches high & 44″ wide.
- Reclaimed Wood for Basketball Wood Backboard
- Saw to Cut the Wood to Size
- Basketball Hoop (we purchased this one Here)
- Spray Paint
- Scrap Wood to Secure the Wood Basketball Backboard to the Wall
- Screws & Screwdriver
How to Build/ Make a DIY Wood Basketball Hoop in 4 Steps…
Step ONE – Creating the Wood Backboard for the DIY Basketball Hoop
Jason had some leftover wood from our former dining room church pew (see that here) that there had been some controversy over.
Long story short, I wanted to keep the church pew & Jason wanted to build benches for our dining room instead.
Jason won & he built 2 benches to replace the pew.
However, I do have to admit that I love the character the old reclaimed wood from our former church pew gives to both the DIY wood basketball hoop backboard as well as our bookcase/ entertainment center.
Our custom DIY wood basketball hoop backboard is a bit smaller than regulation size so we could fit it in our room. Jason cut the reclaimed wood boards for the backboard to be 27 inches high and 44 inches long.
Once the pew boards were cut to the same length Jason attached some spared oak boards to the attach to span any board seams and hold the boards together.
Step TWO – Painting the White Square on the Wood Backboard
Once the DIY wood basketball hoop backboard was together Jason painted on the white square with the same spray paint we used for Audrey’s nightstand & desk. (see those makeovers here)
Printer paper & masking tape did a great job creating the perfect square for our wood basketball hoop with spray paint.
Step THREE – Securing the Basketball Hoop Wood Backboard to the Wall
To secure something heavy to a wall a good method is to cut 2 boards at a 45 degree angle the length of it.
You can then attach one board to wall securely finding the studs to screw into such that it will receive the similar board attached to the backboard and draw it into the wall.
For the DIY wood basketball backboard Jason doubled this up and did 2 boards on the wall and 2 boards on the back of the backboard.
Measure carefully to space out the angled boards appropriately that are attached to the wall and the angled boards attached to the back of the wood basketball hoop backboard.
Once these are attached you should just be able to lift the backboard up to the wall and set it in place.
Jason found that the backboard rattled when a ball bounced against it more than he liked so he also put 2 screws through the front of the wooden backboard to the wood he had already screwed into the wall.
As you noticed from the picture of the back of the backboard Jason finished off the sides with some wood from the pew to give it a nice finished look and hide the support boards on the back of the wood basketball hoop backboard.
Step FOUR – Attaching the Hoop to our DIY Wood Basketball Hoop Backboard
We added this basketball hoop to the wood baseboard.
It took the kids no time to start putting our DIY Reclaimed Wood Basketball Hoop to use.
Our family is not known for our height & everyone was excited to FINALLY be able to dunk. 🙂
See our Home Gym & Exercise Room with our DIY Wood Basketball Hoop (
here)
I hope this inspires you & answers all your questions about how to create a DIY Wood Basketball Hoop at your home!
by Tara Lehman
DOn’t forget to pin & save our DIY Wood Basketball Hoop to your Favorite Pinterest Board!
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BUILDING A DIY BASKETBALL BACKBOARD
David Schultz
Since moving into our house a few years ago, one of the things we wanted to do was replace the old busted up basketball hoop we inherited from the previous owners. We took down the (really heavy) rusty metal backboard and lived with a lonely pole for a while, as you may have seen in photos previously. The classic crisp white school yard hoop is the look we like, but it turns out those are expensive, so we kept our eyes open for one on the thrifted market.
When one became available we pounced and made plans to install it. BUT the new (really heavy) metal backboard unsurprisingly proved difficult to lift up 13 feet in the air for an extended period of time. More importantly, the holes in the backboard for connecting it to the pole weren’t in a great position to make things as sturdy as I would want. So, we shifted to our typical strategy when we can’t seem to find the right product to fit our needs – make it yourself.
Our design ended up very simple, two pieces of plywood glued and screwed together with a couple support pieces of 2 x 8 for 1) the rim and 2) attaching everything to the pole.
MATERIALS
- (2) 3/4” x 4’ x 4’ plywood panels ($50)
- (1) 2”x 8”x 8’ pressure treated lumber ($8)
- 1 and 1/4” screws ($16)
- construction adhesive ($3)
- caulk ($5)
- 2 and 1/2” RSS Screws ($15)
- hardware for attaching pole and rim, we used different sizes of galvanized hardware ($30)
- porch and floor paint ($30)
PROCESS
- Cut plywood panels identically to size for the backboard. We made ours 36 inches tall and 44 inches wide.
- Cut (1) 2 x 8 piece so the length is the same as the width of the backboard. Cut an additional 2 x 8 piece 12 inches long.
- Glue, clamp, and screw the plywood panels together using the 1 and 1/4” screws. I put screws about 8 inches apart on the edges and used a grid-ish pattern on the interior.
- Sand the edges of the backboard so both panels are smooth and continuous. Sand faces of backboard. Sand all corners to round them slightly.
- Caulk all seams and screw holes on the backboard.
- Paint backboard and 2 x 8 pieces. I did three coats to maximize moisture protection.
- The next part, mounting, will vary depending on how you’re putting up your backboard, but our existing pole was set up so we were attaching our backboard to a flat rectangular piece of metal (I’ll call this the bracket) with four large holes at the corners. I clamped the long 2 x 8 to the bracket, centering it in both directions. Then, on the side of the 2 x 8 opposite the bracket, I used a spade bit to make recesses where the heads of the bolts could sink under the surface of the 2 x 8. Then I drilled holes through the 2 x 8 and attached it to the bracket using bolts, nuts, and lock washers.
- Clamp the backboard to the mounted 2 x 8 at the appropriate height so the rim can eventually be attached at 10 feet. Attach the backboard to the mounted 2 x 8 using construction adhesive and the 2 and 1/2” screws, screwing through the 2 x 8 into the back of the backboard.
- Clamp the 12 inch 2 x 8 to the back of the backboard in the appropriate position so you can attach the rim through the backboard and the 12 inch 2 x 8. Attach the 12 inch 2 x 8 to the backboard using construction adhesive and 2 and 1/2” screws, screwing through the 2 x 8 into the back of the backboard.
- Attach the rim to the backboard using whatever hardware works for your rim, going through the backboard and the 12 inch 2 x 8.
- Caulk remaining screw holes and seams.
As the primary recreational b-baller in our family, I was concerned with how a diy backboard would hold up and how well the ball would bounce off the wood.
After testing it for some time, I haven’t been able to tell the difference in bounce between our hoop and a nice indoor one. IT’S BEEN REALLY FUN to shoot around and our backyard looks much more normal with something attached to that pole.
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Basketball hoop - how to make a stand with a backboard with your own hands
Love basketball and want to make a hoop? I wanted to make it myself, not buy it, and I ended up making it. It's pretty cheap, especially if you have some of the stuff you need to assemble.
Let's start assembling the basketball hoop with our own hands.
Step 1: Shape the Ring
The first thing you will need is a ring, I made it with 12mm rod, but it doesn't have to be that size. The standard diameter of a basketball hoop is 450 mm.
To make it flat you need something to wrap it around, this thing should be about 400mm in diameter.
I found an old car rim of the right size, you will need to clamp it to the table with a clamp using a piece of wood.
As shown in photo 2, place another clamp a little further from the first with a rod between them.
As shown in photo 3, slowly wrap the rod around the disk, once you wrap the rod and its edges overlap, cut off the straight ends.
Use a clamp to press the ends together, then weld them together.
To complete this part, place the ring on the ground and straighten out all the curves.
Step 2: Frame
- Bend a piece of flat metal, mine was 4mm thick.
- Weld it to a flat point in the ring.
- Cut two rods 320 mm long.
- Weld them as shown in the photo.
- Drill four holes to match your existing bolts.
- If you need a netball ring, you can simply attach it to the pole and skip the rest of the steps.
Step 3: Mesh Staples (Optional)
Show 7 More Images
Do this step if you need mesh. If you need a network, you will have to buy it.
This step is not as difficult as it seems.
- cut 12 pieces of wire 90 mm long (I would recommend making a few spare parts, as they are easy to ruin.)
- bend them in the middle (it doesn't matter if the tips are the same length)
- clamp the wire in a vise with a steel rod at one end
- bend wire over rod
- repeat this with all parts of
- retighten the wire wrapped around the rod (see photo)
- bend it
- repeat with all parts
- retighten the wire wrapped around the rod
- bend it (at this point you can't just remove the wire from the rod - you will need to slide it to one of its edges and remove it from the edge)
- repeat with all parts of
- divide into 12 pieces and weld on the brackets
Step 4: Backboard
Cut the board to size. My board does not fit the full size of basketball boards. (the second picture shows the dimensions of a standard shield).
My measurements are 1100mm wide, 700mm high and 25mm thick. (You don't have to be that size.)
Step 5: Paint the Shield
Once you've drawn all the lines on the shield, lay masking tape over them. If you try, everything will look neat.
If you are using MDF, you will need to take care to protect the edges from moisture (as shown in photo 2).
Carefully paint over the areas around the masking tape.
Remove masking tape after enough coats of paint have been applied and the board looks complete.
Step 6: Paint the ring
First you need to sand the metal. I used a grinding disc on a grinder.
The ring must not be black or white, it must stand out from the shield. Usually the ring is painted orange or red.
The easiest way to paint inventory is from a can.
Step 7: Assemble
Put it all together. Screw the ring to the shield, hang a net on the ring.
Step 8: Installation
DIY Basketball Post is great to mount on a garage or house wall, but if you want to mount it on a pole, you can create one too.
I installed my ring in the yard using heavy duty wood screws.
A standard basketball hoop must be placed 3 meters from the ground.
I am not responsible for any damage you cause to yourself or your property - you make your own ring.
Successful throws!
DIY basketball hoop
DIY
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Basketball is a sport that is popular not only in America but also in Russia. Many fathers seek to build a playground for their children in the yard. What are the requirements to follow when arranging a basketball hoop.
Shield and ring standards:
- Height 105 cm;
- Width 180 cm;
- Square in the center of the shield - height 45 cm, width 59 cm;
- Indent from the edge of the shield to the red square - 15 cm;
- Ring diameter -45 cm;
- Mesh for a ring 45 cm long;
- The ring is attached at a distance of 15 cm from the shield;
The shield itself is raised to a height of 3. 05 meters.
Contents
- Required materials for ring and shield
- Making the backboard
- Making the hoop
- Fixing the structure
Required materials for the hoop and backboard
A basketball circle can be made from plastic pipe, metal rod or other suitable materials. Also, the ring needs a mesh, which is made of lace, rope, braid or chain.
The shield is made of fiberboard, MDF, multilayer plywood, high-quality and thick organic glass, plastic. You also need fasteners and red or black paint for marking, white for the base.
Weather conditions must be taken into account when choosing the material for the shield. The location for the basketball court should be comfortable and allow the hoop to be hung at the desired height.
Making the shield
Steps:
- With a pencil, draw the lines along which the blank will be cut.
- Cut out the shield with a jigsaw.
- Paint white.
- In the center, draw with black or red lines a rectangle for aiming before throwing. The base of the target must be at the top edge of the ring.
- The stripes of the rectangle must be 5 cm wide.
- You also need to circle the outer edge of the shield.
Making a ring
Steps:
- Choose a pipe or twig 45 centimeters long with a little margin. Using the formula, calculate the exact length:
D(ex.). \u003d D (o) * Pi;
L(pr.) = 45*3.14=141.3 cm.
- Take a length of approx.
- Bend the ring on the round template, bolt the remainder to the shield.
- Net can be made from a metal chain or rope.
- On the twig you need to make ears for the net.
- Take 20 m of rope, cut it to the number of eyes, tie it to the ring. Perpendicular to the sea knot, tie all the pieces. Should be 4-5 rows.
- To prevent the ends of the mesh from fluffing, you need to tar them with fire.